Women’s Body Shapes & Types: How to Dress to Flatter
Posted on November 21, 2019
The following blog features excerpts from BJ Wilson’s book, An Expert’s Guide to Fashion Styling: A Workbook and Practical Guide, which you can purchase here for hard-copy or here for e-book.
The Importance of Body Shapes
Both men and women hold certain views of their body image and often worry about their perceived flaws. Often our clients believe they have many more flaws than they actually have (we are always our most harsh critic). When dressing yourself, it is important to be aware of the perceived flaws you feel so you are able to draw attention away from the flaws and accentuate the positive (your best features). There are many silhouettes, shapes and cuts that will flatter or falter depending on your type. Identifying your particular body shape and type enables you to truly dress to flatter your best features. Remember, the right fit is always in style, whether you are large or small.
The goal of dressing for your body shape is: Accentuate the positive and deflect attention from any perceived flaws.
The 5 Body Shapes
There are five main body types for women. By understanding these different shapes, their challenges and their solutions you can achieve your best image.
Triangle (also known as pear-shaped)
Rectangle (also known as boyish)
Circle (also known as apple)
Inverted Triangle
Hourglass
Let’s take a look at each of the body shapes a little more closely…
Triangle
In the triangle shape (pear-shaped), the bottom half dominates the figure. The hips and rear have undeniable curves that make the shoulders and bust look small by comparison. The dissimilarity between the upper and lower body is the challenge of this shape. To create a more balanced figure, you must hide the difference between the top and bottom halves, Choose shapes and styles that de-emphasize the width of the lower body.
Triangle Do’s:
Boot cut pants: pants that widen below the knee balance hips
Hip-bone length jackets & tops: hemlines hitting at the hipbone visual divides the body at a lower point than waist, minimizing the rear
A-line skirts: same idea as the boot cut pants, a lower flare helps to balance the hips and create a smaller appearance
Shoulder pads: a thin, carefully molded shoulder pad can help add definition to the top, balancing the bottom half
Horizontal necklines: these stripes help to widen the shoulders
Boat neck and square neck shirts and sweaters: help to create the illusion of a stronger shoulder
Triangle Don’ts’:
Tapered pants: if a pant hugs the calves and ankles, the hips will appear even bigger than they are
Big prints on bottom: bold, over-sized prints will draw the eyes to the widest part of the body
High-waisted pants: pants that come up above the navel cover up more of rear, making it appear larger.
Long, straight jackets: avoid clothing that looks too loose on the waist and tight on rear. A trench with a waist defining belt is ideal.
Rectangle
Women with rectangle shapes (also called boyish) lack curvy hips and a curvy chest. They are built straight up and down; often they do not have a defined waistline. On the positive side, most skirts and pants fit this body type very well. To flatter this figure, pieces that create a more womanly shape are good choices.
Rectangle Do’s:
Waist belts: belts create the illusion of a waist. Select a belt in a dark color versus light – light colors visually add pounds to the waistline
Belted tops, sweaters, nipped-in jackets: will add definition to the waist and make the body appear more hourglass
Pants and jeans: from skinny to slim to wide leg, jeans with details on hips and back pockets will add dimension
Nipped Dresses: anything nipped at the waistline or right below the bust is flattering
Wrap style dresses and tops: wrap styles tailors to the midriff and makes the rectangle look trimmer as well as complementing the bust line
Tops: Enhancing neckline, scoop necks, sweetheart and bustier help emphasize the bust and slim waist
Pencil, a-line, drop waist skirts: gives the impression of curves
Jackets: structured shape with round lapels
Rectangle Don’ts’:
Skirts: avoid too full or fluffy skirts as they make the bottom appear heavy and create unbalance
Stretch jeans: for rectangle, choose regular cotton jeans. Spandex will flatten the backside
Straight-shift dress: dresses that hang down straight for the shoulder to the knees gives the impression of one big rectangle
Circle
There are different body types within the category of circle. Some women with a circle shape figure have a large bust, narrow hips and a full mid-section. Their waist is undefined and is the widest part of their frame. Their buttocks are somewhat flat and they have slender legs.
Circle Do’s:
Tunic: a relaxed cut glides over the stomach. Ones with pleating or voluminous sleeves are most flattering
Asymmetrical tops: these tops create vertical lines that are great for disguising midsection
Empire tops and dresses: a waistline that rests just below the bust will emphasize narrow rib cage and hide the stomach
Skirts: pencil skirts that hit a tad below the knee
Trousers: trousers with zippers on the side will help avoid extra bumps at midsection
Shift dress: structured style helps slim trouble areas, especially paired with heels
Wrap dress: allows for adjustment. The top half and waist can be adjusted to fit curves then hang loose on the lower body
Soft fabrics: tops and bottoms should drape over body, stiff materials will bunch-up and create unnatural, unflattering lines
Circle Don’ts’:
High-waisted pants: high waistlines add more volume and make the bottom part of body look heavier and broader, midsection will appear thicker
Busy tops: avoid ruffles, embroidery or other decoration. Enhancements add volume to the top half
Big, baggy sweaters: a giant sweater visually packs on pounds. Sweaters with wide ribbing at the waist and hips help draw attention to those areas and break up the overall lines
Tapered pants: pants slim at the calves and ankles make the hips appear wider. Shop for pants that fall straight from hip or have a slight flare
Belts: anything tucked in that adds bulk to midsection should be avoided
Ankle-strap shoes: a strap cutting the ankle makes the lower leg look thick. Wedge-heeled shoes balance out the calves and offer more support than regular heels.
Inverted
The ultimate goal for the inverted triangle body shape is to make the body look more visually balances by defining the waist, softening the shoulders, and making the hips broader. For this reason, details, ruffles, and anything that adds volume or bulk to the lower part of the body is perfect. It is always better to keep the top half clean and uncluttered.
Inverted Triangle Do’s:
Tops: deep v-neck, sleeveless or form-fitting sleeves look best.
Jackets and coats: ones that are constructed and shaped with angular lines and have details such as pockets and embellishments in the lower part are best
Skirts: a-line skirts are perfect and add bulk to lower body. Panels, ruffles and pleats will make the hips broader and more proportional to shoulders.
Pants and jeans: any style that accentuates the hips and bottom are ideal. Baggy, combat-style, wide leg and palazzo are great options. Bright and colorful and bold patterns work well.
Dresses: peplums, mermaid and a-line all work well. One strap and strapless dresses are best for showing off shoulders.
Inverted Triangle Don’ts’:
Tops: spaghetti and narrow straps will have a tendency to make shoulders look broader. Wide necklines such as boat neck tops with puffy sleeves should be avoided.
Jackets: Double-breasted buttoning, big collars, shoulder pads and embellishments like epaulets will make shoulders broader. Avoid structured jackets, tailored jackets and cropped jackets.
Pants and jeans: Skinny and fitted jeans accentuate the disproportion of the bottom half to the upper half of the body.
Hourglass
The hourglass shape is considered the most ideal body shape. With ample chest, a tiny waist and full, but not wide hips, this shape, although evenly proportioned, can seem as if it’s all angles.
Hourglass Do’s:
Tailored jackets: unbottoned jackets will give a slimmer, elongated look
Pants and jeans: boot cut, flare and wide leg jeans streamline the bottom to balance out curves
High-waisted pants: this style hugs natural waistline, so it draws the eye to middle
Wrap dresses: creates diagonal movement across the body that is forgiving
V-neck tops: slim the upper body and flatter the upper torso. Other flattering cuts – open shirt collars and v-neck halters.
Pencil skirts: works best on hourglass shape because it accentuates the waist and skims the hips.
Hourglass Don’ts’:
Tops and blouses: high necklines, like turtlenecks, will draw attention away from waist. Boat neck and square widen bust and shoulders, giving a heavy look.
Dresses: Pattern and embellished (heavy beaded) tend to make the body appear heavy and unbalanced.
Double-breasted jackets: adds extra bulk, makes the bust look larger
Jeans: avoid detailing on back of pants and hip area.
The Two Body Types
Petites and plus-sizes are considered body types, not shapes. Body types have nothing to do with size, but with the proportions of the bust, waist and hips in relation to another. Petite and plus-sized women, like all women, fall into specific categories of body shapes. More than a label, a woman’s body type determines which clothing styles will be most flattering.
Petite
Petite sizing is based on height and not body measurement or weight. Their curves are proportioned smaller, so body measurement information isn’t tailored for their size. When we refer to petite, most people assume we mean tiny. Actually petite refers to a size range of clothing that is made to fit a woman who is 5′ 4” or under, regardless of whether they wear a size 2, 16 or a plus size.
Petite Do’s:
Monochromatic tones: single color or shades of the same color head-to-toe create a long, lean look
Vertical details: these lines draw the eye upwards, giving the illusion of more height. Stripes, zip-front styles, princess cuts and seams and cable pattern knits work well.
V-shape and U-shape: these necklines in tops and jackets help create the illusion of height.
Classic pencil or slim skirt: these skirts make the figure longer and taller, especially when they sit high on the waist.
Straight-leg pants and jeans: select pants without cuffs, bulky pockets or pleats. Correct pant length makes a big difference with petites. Pants that hit the bottom of the heels in the back make the leg look longer.
Dresses above the knee: a short sheath or slip dress in one color from shoulder to knee
Heels: high heels are the easiest way to add height. Pointed-toe heels elongate further.
Petite Don’ts’:
Horizontal details: make the body appear shorter and wider.
Baggy and over-sized clothes: these styles overwhelm the petite figure and should be avoided.
Calf-length skirts: this length of skirt is extremely unflattering on shorter women. With only a small amount of leg exposed, it makes the body look even shorter and more wide.
Over-sized handbags: simply too big for petite figures. Always keep accessories in proportion to the body.
Heavy-looking shoes, ankle-straps: shoes with ankle straps break up the important vertical lines we try to create for petite women. Heavy looking shoes draw the eye down and give the illusion of weight.
Plus
Plus-size women fall into specific categories of body shape. For plus-size figures, look for pieces that slim curves without being skintight. Highlight the strong points. For example, if you have great curvy calves, consider knee-length skirts.
Plus-size Do’s:
Wrap dresses: this style allows for adjustment. Adjust the top half to fit curves, close to body but not too tight.
V-necks, u-necks, scoop necks, flutter sleeves: feminine and very attractive, these styles will accentuate the shoulders and will draw the eye away from heavier areas.
A-line skirts and flare styles: a-line is the most forgiving of all skirt styles. A-line will balance out the shoulders, chest and stomach areas.
Pants: Boot cut and flared styles work best to lengthen the leg.
Shoes: Wear heels. If you do not like wearing heels, choose shoes with a heel of an inch or two which is enough to slim your legs and figure.
Vertical stripes: vertical prints or stripes create a slimmer silhouette. Any print or stripes that are vertical will make the eye go up and down.
Plus-size Don’ts’:
Boxy tops or sweaters: very unflattering. Choose a vertical knit or pattern that will add length to your figure.
Tapered pants: pants slim at the ankles will make the hips look even wider. Look for pants that fall straight from the hips or have a slight flare.
Busy tops: avoid any shirt or blouse with ruffles, embroidery or other decoration. These add volume to the top half.
Skirts: avoid bubble pencil and pleated skirt styles. They tend to create a heavier hip and bottom area.
Dresses: avoid florals, boxy styles and large prints.
Horizontal details: avoid all horizontal stripes and details, they will make the figure appear twice as big.
Now that you are armed with the right information to dress your body shape and type in the most flattering way, check out our Pinterest boards, where you can browse for outfit inspiration or shop directly through the links in each pin. As always, if you are still feeling overwhelmed by the thought of dressing your body type or want a little extra professional help, check out our professional styling services.
All material in this blog, as an excerpt from BJ Wilson’s book An Expert’s Guide to Fashion Styling is protected under copyright laws. Any sharing or reposts must give credit to BJ Wilson, BJ Wilson & Company.
